Welcome back to the channel, today we're going to swap the differential on the chaser to a mechanical limited slip differential

but before that let's take a look at what's already on the car

spinning the wheels it looks like the current differential is a Torsen design

you can tell by the fact there is a slight delay between spinning the wheel and seeing the other wheel turn

compared to the response you would expect if this was a regular open differential

The exhaust has already been removed from the car

as you can see there is a bit of rust on the rear cross-member here

so we will have to apply some rust converter to treat this later

The rubber mountings here are also torn so I will be replacing these with new ones

with all that said, lets get into it.

Disconnecting the propeller shaft from the differential

After opening the drain plug on the differential I move on to removing the rear member supports and rear stabilizers

replace the plug once most of the oil has drained

undoing the connections between the drive shafts and the differential

followed by the bolts connecting the differential and the rear mounting

after securing the differential with a jack I remove the front mount

and lower the differential out of the car

a slide hammer and adapter is used to pull out the drive shaft flanges

opening up the case we can pull out the gear set and remove any remaining oil

With the case set aside to drain I'll remove the ring gear

Any parts to be reused are given a clean

and any remaining oil and gasket material is also scrubbed off

Cleaning the remainder of the parts

Removing the leftover gasket material from the case

before giving the casing itself a quick clean

After sanding down the worst of the rust I applied some rust converter and allowed it to dry overnight

removing the bearing

before cleaning it in preparation to be reused

I opted for Tomei's T-Trax Advance, the base design is from KAAZ but has been modified by Tomei for enhanced performance and durability

this design boasts an incredibly rigid body as well as containing many more clutch plates than a regular LSD

reducing the amount of wear and stress on each plate

meaning that when correctly installed and maintained regularly you can expect it to last a very long time

I have used this product in racing applications before and have never had to pull one apart for an overhaul

that being said lets get to installing it on the car.

Pressing the bearings back on to the differential

after a quick clean I apply some threadlocker to the ring gear bolts

before cleaning the ring gear itself in preparation for the next step

where I heat the ring gear and bolts for around 30 minutes

after which I reassemble the ring gear onto the differential

and torque down the bolts to their manufacturer's specifications

replacing the oil seals for the side flanges

fitting the differential back into its casing

checking the backlash on the ring gear

the backlash was slightly out so I had to make some adjustments

backlash here is the amount of play between the gear teeth

and is necessary to enable the smooth operation of the gears

however, if the amount of play is too great it can lead to premature wear

or even damage and or failure, which means that getting the right amount of backlash dialed in is very important

with the backlash sorted, it's time to look at the contact between the gear teeth

if there is an issue here it can lead to the differential producing a lot of noise

and in extreme cases the cracking of the gear itself

so it is important to check this thoroughly to ensure everything is working as it should

everything here seemed fine so we're good to go

some liquid gasket is applied to the mating surfaces

after wiping the cover down with some degreaser it's bolted back onto the casing

applying some lubricant to the side flange oil seals

hammering in one of the side flanges

with the rust converter on the rear now dry I can replace the differential mounts

after pushing out both the old rubber mounts with some help from a puller and my hammer

I apply some rust prevention spray to the areas that will hold the new mounts

and push them in before it has time to dry completely

there is a set orientation for these so be sure to check the direction they are facing before putting these in

with the new mounts in I give the rear member a coat of rust prevention paint

filling the differential with approximately 1.8L of differential oil

before lubricating the remaining side flange seal

and hammering in the flange itself

with the differential all back together it's ready to go back on the car

once the differential is secured I move on to connecting the various parts

connecting the rear stabilizers

and the drive shafts

now all that is left is to re-attach the propeller and drive shafts

however, here's a tip for if you're ever doing something like this

there are six bolts in connecting each flange to their drive shaft, however you'll find that because the shafts can turn

it can be very hard to torque the bolts down properly

if you pull on the hand brake, like you can see me doing here grabbing the cable underneath the car,

it will hold the shafts in place and allow you to tighten the bolts properly down to around 84.3Nm

all these parts form part of the drive train and need to be tightened correctly

I hope this video has been helpful!

I really enjoy putting these videos together as a chance to introduce people to the joy of cars and

if you found this video enjoyable or helpful, please feel free to leave a like, comment or subscribe to the channel

I look forward to seeing you again in the next video!

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Ride along with a top class girl drifter